Folkwear – Chinese Jacket Sewing Pattern (XS-3XL)

Difficulty: Intermediate

Sizes: XS-3XL (approx. UK 4/6-28/30 based on our size chart)

Please always check the pattern size chart and finished garment measurements.

Description

This pattern offers a timeless jacket design with three different lengths and the choice of a front or asymmetrical opening, inspired by the attire of noblewomen during the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911). It continues to be worn by individuals of Chinese heritage worldwide as a festive garment, suitable for both formal occasions in opulent silks or satin, and everyday wear in comfortable cottons, with traditional indigo-dyed cotton being a popular option. Furthermore, this garment has been transformed into a truly versatile piece with various options for unique closures across all three views:

View A presents an Easy-to-Sew, unlined version. The characteristic side closure is achieved through a gracefully shaped front overlap secured by knotted buttons and frog closures at the neck and under the right arm. The bell sleeves, neckline, overlap, and elegantly curved hem edge all feature inside facings. You also have the option to add a Mandarin collar to any of the views.

View B utilizes the same pattern pieces as View A but offers a lined jacket with contrasting facings piped using a narrow bias strip, which are turned outward for a more decorative effect. Both Views A and B can be tailored to a short or fingertip length.

In View C, you’ll find a center front opening with facings that are fastened using either simple or more elaborate frog closures. This view also includes faced side vents and can be lined, with the choice of short, fingertip, or mid-calf length.

Optional embellishment techniques provide the opportunity for perso­nali­sation, such as embroidery designs for traditional roundels, a couched embroidered butterfly to adorn the side vents of View C, hand-painting techniques, and knotted button and loop closures (frogs) for that added touch of customization and creativity.

Recommended Fabric

Natural or synthetic silk, light or medium weight cotton, or lightweight wool.

Notions

• Knotted button and loop closures (frogs), 3 for Views A and B short length, 4 for Views A and B fingertip length, 4 for View C short length, 6 for View C fingertip length and mid-calf length.